A fourteen hour plane ride sure is a pain in the ass.
But to get here, I think it was pretty worth it.
Thanks to complimentary wine and binging pre-loaded episodes of the Untamed, the flight passed by pretty smoothly.
Yeah, definitely glad I brought my iPad instead of watching on this 2006 Nintendo DS screen.
After the flight was a short layover in Narita. Nothing much to note, nothing much my jetlagged self can even recall except that pre-sunrise is a limital space due to how little I see it.
Then the flight with Peach Airlines... oh. Ahaha. So here's the thing, the flight itself was fine, but Merry-Friend and I strolled into the airport, without a care in the world, only to be slapped by our own inability to properly and accurately gauge weight in the slightest.
Oversized luggage.
7kg limit.
Thirty minutes to the flight.
Ten minutes until they close the gate.
So we needed to purchase checked luggage, and fast. Add in credit cards that need a text message confirmation and japanese sim card and you've got trouble. Which thankfully Best-Boyfriend saved the day (thank you, my hero Mr. Really-Came-in-Cluch-with-that-Credit-Card).
After much sweat and hustle, we make our plane by a razors edge. Lesson learned. Weigh your bags.
But more sweat was yet to be had. Upon arrival to this beautiful island, which was an arresting sight. I've never been to a proper beach. Yes, I've been to our lovely east coast beaches, which are charming in their own right. The rocky and windy, sand dollar landed beaches of Maine, and the iron-rich red banks of PEI with its gentle sloping dunes.
But I've never seen blue quite so rich as this. Like Arctic Blitz Gatorade blue.
And then, upon landing, my back has never sweated so much. When I was a kid, my dad would teach me about how to acclimatize new fish into their aquarium, very very slowly letting the new water drip in to avoid shocking the fish to death.
I wish someone would have acclimated me. Going from freshly snowing Montreal -2° to a blistering 28° tropical heat sure made me feel like a fish out of water.
It's mild says the locals.
This? This is mild? It's 28° in NOVEMEBER? I came to the realization that these islanders are made of the same tough stuff that gets us through our winters and them through their summers.
We checked in to our charming guest house (a very large capsule style, whose futon style makes me wish I didn't have a bed), grabbed a bite at a lunch spot, which is way too conveniently located just two minutes away.
This dish was delicious, I ate some new slimy thing that I loved. Delicious and tender beef, fresh rice, perfectly chewy noodles. And for dessert (which came with the set) was ice cream and coffee.
Our server was sweet and kind, and the place felt like I was eating from somebody's home. Next door had dogs that I was able to great and shake paws with.
Quick side bar, these hibiscus are beautiful. So vibratant and lush.
Afterwards, we walked around the port area, rich with touristy knick knacks, souvenirs and kitchy shops. We met some very interesting characters, one of which an old man who ran a store, who so kindly offered us some medicine of the sort that I-can-have-at-home-but-certainly-not-here. We kindly refused the charming man.
Strolling around with my camera was a great time, I'll save my lens and camera rant for another blog. But my takumar and Ishigaki were made for eachother. This lens lovingly picks up the rich warm hues of the buildings and the deep blue of the sky.
We met a little stud of cat, who was quick to demand pets, and saw a few more in some... interesting locations.
We bought our silly little trinkets and wandered until our stomachs were rolling (well, not mine just yet, for I had been indulging on various Okinawan snacks all day).
We found a cute Izakaya which had many empty seats... but the reservations were full they said. Then we found one just a block over... but they're closing they said. Ah, message recived. Which I get it, listen, tourists can be a real pain, but I wanted a cold beer so bad.
Merry-friend was ready to call it quits. But just one more try---third times the charm.
And boy, wasn't it a charm. We found an absolute gem of an Izakaya. A night that for me, will certainly be one to remember.
Beyond crisp Japanese beer, which is entirely too easy to drink (took about four to get me to a nice and tispy state), and the delicious food (which was a champaru---salty and full of flavour, fresh sashimi that melted when you ate it, a crispy bar snack that I have no name for, oh and to finish, creamy rich ice cream, which we were sneakily delivered two different flavors) aside, our severs and bartenders were absolutely delightful people.
Never a cup empty from the kind severs, but our bartender was the dude. He had lived in Canada and delighted us with stories, and we entertained him in typical Merry-Friend and I fashion (a set we've performed for many years), and Merry-Friend was impressive with her Japanese (which only got better the more highballs she had). The locals in the bar gradually warmed up to us, as we joined in their kampais, clinked our glasses and laughed along with them.
We left with our steps slightly swaying to the left, our belly's full and our hearts warm.
The next day, we decided that Ishigaki wasn't small enough, and we wanted an even smaller island to go to. So we hopped on the ferry (a very cute little vessel) and off we went!
Taketomi island was somehow even hotter. The noon light was so bright it made this little island both beautiful but haunting. Something just a little eerie about it, between the crows cawing in surround sound and the leaves the size of my whole body.
There's something about the cats here. They're so... laid-back.
I by some miracle (by miracle I mean copious amounts of sunscreen) didn't get burned.
We picked what was by far the best crepe I've had in Japan yet, at a location not marked on Google maps. We had a Benimo Crepe, a purple potatoe from Okinawa. The cream was so rich and barely sweet, just how it should be. The crepe itself was chewy and full of vanilla flavour. The person who ran the shop was so sweet and cute!
It was one of those places that made me question if I had just died and this was paradise? When I came around the bend and saw the beach I actually stopped in my footsteps---it was that magical.
We rode the ferry back, grabbed a quick bite. I took a minute while we waited for our bus (sometimes an hour between busses) to do some laundry. I wish we had a place to sun dry laundry at home!
And headed off to the north! To Sunset Beach!
A lovely bus ride away, nice to get off my feet a bit and watch the mountains go by. Unfortunately we were unable to stay at the beach for long because the last bus was only thirty minutes after we arrived.
I wanted to hop in the water but there was box jellyfish. I however, did my favourite beach activity, beach combing. I was particularly happy because I found some shells I've never seen before. However, uncertain of the laws to bring them home, dutiful threw them back.
I did keep the beach glass!
Watching the sun set over the mountains while we waited for the bus back left me with a melancholy heart.
A sad twinge that didn't quite leave until later in the evening I stocked up on FamilyMart for a quick bite, including the touted Orion beer (which is quite tasty, crisp but pleasant, fantastic logo)
After eating I got to know the guest house owners and their friend and chatted with them for a while! Really interesting people, the husband of the owner did all the renovations and carpentry himself and his friend roasts coffee (of which he brewed us a cup, very tasty!).
I also finally got to meet the guest house cat! She's so pretty! I noticed all the cats here also have very short tails.
A bit of studying chinese and tidying up followed the chats. The fresh taste of Orion really cooled down what was a rather heated and scorching day.
The next day was much cooler, a pleasant breeze and generous clouds made the day perfect.
We decided to go to Yaima Village, a preservation site with traditional houses and adorable squirrel monkeys.
The architecture was so cool. There was even one house that was built without nails. I believe the houses were reinstalled here, but still, you could almost see the ghosts of the past cooking in the kitchen, sitting at the table, praying at the alters.
Looking happy and cute after a quick call to Best Boy.
I also managed to snag myself a Very Good Fortune (of which, I still tied to a tree, just incase).
We walked around the area a bit more, and there was a cool mangrove! Lots of interesting critters and insects, as Merry-Friend put it "very JRPG".
Hard to photograph, but the island has about a million butterflies. I wish to become a bug catcher with a little net. They fly around you making you feel like some otherworldly being.
Next we climbed to a little Observatory, which gave up a lovely over view of Ishigaki.
Which funnily enough, afterwards we manage to catch a live folk music performance. They called themselves grandma and gramps and it was very jovial and special experience, not one that photographs could do any justice. I firmly believe that some things just need be experienced. But the grandma did sing with a giant bottle of sake on her head---she was somehow both bad ass and adorable.
Rounding off Yaima Village was a trip to the squirrel monkeys! I usually find monkeys kind of ugly (lemurs aside---probably due to my love of zooboomafu as a child), but I can make an exception for these cuties.
And then off to grab lunch. Although, this wasn't just any lunch. We went to a burger place called Miru Miru where if you're not driving you have to work for your lunch.
The reason why this place is so special is multiple. First of all, there is ice cream of many unique and delicious flavours (I had Yakult and a Milk flavour). Second of all, it has the single best burger I've ever had in my entire life (and creamiest milk, its like how you remember milk tasting as a kid). Lastly, it offers a view so special it will heal you of all aliments, smooth all your edges and bring peace to your heart.
So yes, it's worth the arduous hike up.
There truly is nothing like the ocean air.
I had gotten my international licence, but not being a driver at heart, I forgot about it... whoops. But in a way there's a small silver lining, since the busses are infrequent (hours apart) it gave us a good excuse to soak up the wonderful sights and really live on island time.
After we headed back to hostel after such a lovely day and the guest house's cat warmed up to me quite nicely. Definitely made me miss the Boyz.
Thanks Miako-chan!
The next day was sadly our last on this lush and fragrent tropical island. The morning brought me more cuddles with this sweet kitty.
Merry-Friend and I took one last leisurely stroll around the port.
We went to a nearby cafe that was recommended to us. The coffee was from Kenya and wonderfully acidic. We were given some Okinawan sugar which tasted more like caramel than sugar. It was super tasty!
We wrote letters to some of the locals, shopkeeps and our guest house hosts who welcomed us and gave us wonderful memories. Afterwards, we just enjoyed the sights and picked up some more trinkets.
And then the time came to say goodbye to our charming, cozy and beautiful little guest house! Goodbye hosts, goodbye Miako-chan! Until next time!
We took the bus back to the airport, and half way through, my eyes started to actually fill with happy tears because I remembered that the airport has a Miru Miru and I can eat one more delicious burger before I go.
What a wonderful to end this beautiful part of the trip! I can't wait to take Best Boyfriend here, and enjoy the magic and vibrant energy of this beautiful and captivating island. Thank you Ishigaki, I'll be back for sure!
See you in Fukuoka!
